Peach John is a Japanese lingerie brand and mail-order retailer based in Tokyo. Mika Noguchi and her then husband started selling women's underwear by mail in 1988, incorporated Peach John on 1 June 1994 with Mika as president, and turned its "PJ" catalog into one of the best-known lingerie publications in Japan. The company has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Wacoal Holdings since January 2008.
The catalog years
The Noguchis took their model from Cecile, a large Japanese catalog retailer, and applied it to lingerie for young women. In its earliest form the business imported American lingerie and resold it. Japanese sources credit a push-up style called the Bombast Bra with the early success that justified forming a company in 1994.
Mail order suited the product. Buying underwear at a department store counter in Japan meant a fitting with a sales assistant. A catalog let a teenager or a woman in her twenties choose a padded push-up bra at home. The company unified its catalogs under the name "PJ" in 1994, and at its height printed about 1.8 million copies of each issue, three times a year, plus a smaller sister title called "GJ".
Shibuya 109
Peach John opened its first shop at its headquarters in Bunkyo Ward in 1994 and a year later took space in Shibuya 109, the fashion building that defined the gyaru street style of the late 1990s. The address placed the brand among the shops that set trends for young Tokyo women, and its look followed: pastel colors, bows, bold padding and cheerful marketing that treated sexy and cute as compatible.
Near collapse and the Wacoal deal
The growth was not smooth. According to the English Wikipedia entry, Peach John came close to bankruptcy in 2001 and then repaid about two billion yen of debt in thirteen months. By fiscal 2006 sales had reached about 17 billion yen, roughly 17.3 billion at the peak.
That success drew in Japan's largest lingerie company. In May 2006 Wacoal formed a capital alliance with Peach John and took 49 percent of its shares, and the company moved its headquarters to Shibuya. On 10 January 2008 Wacoal bought the rest through a share exchange. Mika Noguchi swapped her 51 percent for Wacoal Holdings stock valued at about 8.7 billion yen and became one of Wacoal's largest shareholders.
The charismatic president
In the 2000s Noguchi was one of the most visible businesswomen in Japan. She appeared as a panelist on the television program "Money no Tora", where executives judged entrepreneurs' pitches. Her public profile and the brand's were closely linked, which made the later separation awkward.
Overseas and after the founder
Peach John opened its first store outside Japan in Hong Kong on 5 December 2008. In May 2011 Noguchi was moved from president to an ordinary board seat after poor results, and Hideo Kawanaka, a Wacoal vice president, took charge in June. She left the company entirely in June 2015 and announced the departure on social media.
Under Wacoal the brand sells online and through its own shops, and it has run character collaborations aimed at its customers' nostalgia, including lingerie for the twentieth anniversaries of Sailor Moon and Neon Genesis Evangelion. In 2016 the company had about 140 employees.
Why Peach John matters
Peach John is a useful counterpoint to Wacoal itself. The parent company built its name on fit research and conservative engineering. Peach John sold fantasy, padding and catalog photography to women who were not yet Wacoal's customers. Buying it gave Wacoal a younger audience, and keeping the name separate preserved what that audience liked.
The brand is often compared with Victoria's Secret, and the comparison holds in one respect: both turned a printed catalog into a lingerie brand's main shop window. Peach John got there through a Bunkyo Ward mailroom rather than an Ohio boardroom.
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Sources
- en.wikipedia.org: Peach John
- ja.wikipedia.org: ピーチ・ジョン
- digital-zasshi.jp: mika noguchi
- wwdjapan.com: 189285
- wacoalholdings.jp: wacoalpresentation20210212script 1.pdf
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