The Woman Who Changed Chanel's Runway
In October 2020, Jill Kortleve walked the Chanel runway during Paris Fashion Week. She was the first plus-size model to walk for the house in decades. The audience held their breath — not because something was wrong, but because something had finally, irrevocably changed.
The Rotterdam Origin
Born in 1994 in Rotterdam, the Netherlands, to a Dutch-Surinamese family, Kortleve grew up in a city known for its diversity, its directness, and its architecture. She entered modeling as a teenager, but the industry did not know what to do with her.
She was beautiful. She was photogenic. She was also a size 14-16 in an industry that operated almost exclusively in sizes 0-4.
For years, Kortleve worked steadily in the Netherlands but struggled to break through internationally. The modeling industry's rigid size requirements meant that her talent was visible but her opportunities were limited.
The Breakthrough
The shift came in the late 2010s, when the fashion industry — under pressure from consumers, activists, and social media — began to reconsider its relationship with body size. Kortleve was in the right place at the right time, with the right face and the right attitude.
Her breakthrough moments came in rapid succession:
- Alexander McQueen cast her for their runway show
- Fendi featured her in a major campaign
- Jacquemus put her on the runway in their celebrated shows
- Versace included her in their runway lineup
- And then Chanel — the most establishment house in fashion — opened its door
The Chanel Moment
When Kortleve walked the Chanel runway in 2020, it was not tokenism. She was wearing the same clothes as the other models. She was styled identically. She walked with the same confidence. The message was clear: this is not a special category. This is fashion.
The response was immediate and emotional. Women who had never seen their body type on a Chanel runway watched the show and cried. Fashion editors who had spent decades writing about diversity suddenly had to reckon with the fact that it was actually happening.
Kortleve has continued to walk for Chanel in subsequent seasons, making it clear that her presence is not a one-time statement but a permanent shift.
The Dual Heritage
Kortleve's Dutch-Surinamese heritage adds another layer to her significance. She represents diversity in multiple dimensions — body size, ethnicity, and cultural background. In a European fashion industry that has been slow to embrace racial diversity, Kortleve's success is doubly meaningful.
She has spoken about growing up between two cultures and finding fashion as a space where she could express both. Her look — warm skin, expressive eyes, and a confident presence — draws from both her Dutch and Surinamese roots.
What She Represents
Kortleve's impact extends beyond her individual career:
- She proved that luxury fashion can accommodate diverse body types without diminishing its prestige
- She showed that plus-size models can walk the most exclusive runways in the world, not just designated "inclusive" shows
- She demonstrated that the fashion industry's size restrictions were commercial choices, not aesthetic necessities
- She opened pathways for other mid-size and plus-size models at the highest level
Beyond the Runway
Kortleve has built a career that extends beyond walking:
- Editorial features in Vogue, Elle, and i-D
- Campaigns for Chanel Beauty and luxury accessories
- Speaking engagements on diversity and inclusion in fashion
- A growing social media presence focused on body acceptance and style
Why She Matters
Jill Kortleve did not ask the fashion industry to create a separate category for her. She walked into the existing category — Chanel couture, Versace glamour, Fendi luxury — and demonstrated that she belonged there. That is not inclusion. That is revolution.
The first plus-size model on Chanel's runway in decades. Jill Kortleve didn't open a door — she proved the door was never really locked.