In a move that signals a thoughtful revival for one of Paris's most understated maisons, Carven has named Kai Raffael Nesselrath as its new design director. The appointment, confirmed this week, brings the Italian-born, German-raised designer from Saint Laurent's atelier - where he spent nearly a decade rising to head of womenswear - to a house whose founder, Marie-Louise Carven-Grog, once challenged the rigid confines of haute couture with an ethos of ease and inclusivity. Nesselrath's first collection will debut on the runway during spring 2027 Paris Fashion Week.
For those versed in lingerie history, Madame Carven's legacy resonates deeply. Launching her house in 1945 - alongside contemporaries Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain - she was one of the rare female couturiers in a Paris recovering from war. Her designs, which introduced comfort and movement into the corseted world of high fashion, mirrored the post-war liberation that also reshaped intimate apparel. Just as women were shedding restrictive undergarments for softer, more natural silhouettes, Carven's dresses offered a similar freedom, capturing the insouciance of an era ready to breathe again.
Nesselrath seems to understand this lineage intimately. "I love clothes, spaces and conversations that encourage breathing," he said, a sentiment that would have resonated with Madame Carven herself. CEO Shawna Tao noted that "a new generation's perspective on the world feels especially important today," and that the designer is "uniquely suited" to interpret Carven's founding vision: a distinctly French, inclusive approach built on creativity and relevance. After years of shifting creative hands - from Guillaume Henry's contemporary repositioning to more recent stints by Louise Trotter and Mark Thomas - this appointment feels like a homecoming to the house's original spirit. For a museum dedicated to the history of lingerie, Carven's story remains a masterclass in how fashion, from the outermost dress to the innermost layer, can champion both beauty and breathability.
Originally reported by WWD