Safia Minney, founder of the pioneering ethical label People Tree, issues a stark warning: fashion must reduce its output by up to 95% to operate within planetary boundaries. Her solution, however, looks deliberately backward. She champions a return to artisanal craft—a principle with deep roots in lingerie history—as the path to a just and sustainable future.
This is not a new idea. The foundations of modern lingerie were built on craft. In the late 19th century, brands like Cadolle, which invented the modern bra, operated from ateliers where garments were meticulously constructed by hand. This tradition of skilled, small-scale production is what Minney seeks to revive with her new venture, Indilisi. Her focus on handweaving and embroidery mirrors the artistry once essential for luxury corsetry and delicate négligées, where value was measured in time and skill, not volume.
Yet, visiting artisan communities in India and Bangladesh, Minney found conditions worsening, a sobering contrast to the craft-led ideals. Her response is a collection where organic jacquards and hand-embroidered florals—requiring days of work—define a new, responsible luxury. It’s a model that consciously echoes the pre-industrial intimacy of lingerie creation, where garment and maker were intimately connected.
For the lingerie industry, this presents a poignant reflection. The sector has oscillated between mass production and cherished craftsmanship. Minney’s argument suggests that a viable future may lie in consciously embracing its artisanal past, proving that true luxury has never been about speed, but about the care woven into every stitch.
Originally reported by WWD