The current fascination with so-called 'ugly shoes'—playful, provocative designs from Maison Margiela, Loewe, and others—feels distinctly modern. Yet, the desire to make a statement through unconventional footwear is a thread woven through centuries of dress. Consider the Renaissance chopine, a towering platform that signaled nobility and impracticality in equal measure, or the split-toe Tabi, which Maison Margiela reinterpreted in 1988 from its 15th-century Japanese origins. These were never merely about function; they were declarations of identity and status.
This revival aligns with a cyclical appetite for the absurd in fashion, a concept Susan Sontag famously examined. Today's iterations, from sculptural clogs to split-toe sneakers, serve the same purpose: they are focal points that challenge bland uniformity. When Bella Hadid or Doja Cat wears a controversial silhouette, they participate in a long tradition of using footwear as a catalyst for conversation.
The new Nike Air Rift Breathe, with its separated toe, directly references this history, while Puma's Mostro Mid recombines athletic archives into something new. Each design, in its way, acknowledges that what we place on our feet has always been a potent site for innovation and rebellion. The 'ugly' shoe is simply the latest chapter in lingerie's external counterpart: both are intimate foundations that shape the silhouette and, when chosen with intent, project a powerful narrative to the world.
Originally reported by WWD