MILAN - In a city where silk and lace have long whispered secrets of seduction, three emerging Italian fashion houses have been crowned with the Camera Moda Fashion Trust's 2026 grants, a nod to the enduring dialogue between structure and sensuality that defines both lingerie and high fashion. At a gala dinner in Milan's Fabbrica del Vapore, Act N.1, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, and Materia each secured €70,000 in funding, plus mentorship from June through the nonprofit founded in 2017 to nurture Italian talent. Since its inception, the Trust has funneled over €1.45 million into 35 designers, echoing the patronage that once elevated 19th-century corsetières into ateliers of haute couture.
Act N.1, a previous winner in 2022, has long captivated audiences with theatrical tulle creations - fabric historically used in petticoats and boudoir gowns - now reimagined as armor for the modern stage. The brand's deconstructed silhouettes and masculine-feminine juxtapositions recall the corset's evolution from constraint to empowerment. Institution by Galib Gassanoff, a 2025 recipient, weaves Azerbaijani textile traditions into its narrative, much like the intricate brocades of 18th-century stays that told stories of status and lineage. Gassanoff, a finalist for the LVMH Prize, treats fabric as a socio-artistic archive, unearthing cultural layers through cut and drape.
Materia, founded by Francesco Saverio Matera in 2023, champions adaptive design with seamless knits and 3D-printed components - a nod to the ergonomic shifts in lingerie, from boned bustiers to wire-free bralettes. Using regenerated wool from Tuscan mills and wind-resistant textiles from Majotech, Materia prioritizes sustainability, echoing lingerie's own turn toward ethical materials. Jury president Carlo Capasa noted, "Supporting young designers today means giving space to the future of Italian fashion." For The Lingerie Museum, these grants affirm that the threads of innovation - whether in a garter belt or a gown - remain tightly woven.
Originally reported by WWD