Net-a-Porter's latest edit, 'The Icons,' signals a deliberate pivot toward runway provocateurs like Rick Owens and Comme des Garçons. This strategic shift, led by chief buyer Brigitte Chartrand, mirrors moments in lingerie history when foundational brands pivoted toward the conceptual. Consider the late 20th century, when names like La Perla, founded in 1954 as a modest atelier, began collaborating with ready-to-wear designers, transforming intimate apparel into a statement of avant-garde fashion. Chartrand's mission to highlight designers who 'challenge convention' finds a clear parallel in those pivotal industry crossings.
The retailer's broader revitalization, emphasizing exclusive product and editorial storytelling, further aligns with lingerie's evolution from hidden necessity to public cultural artifact. President Heather Kaminetsky's focus on high-touch service and curated 'secret shops' recalls the bespoke fittings and salons of historic corsetieres, where client intimacy was paramount. Meanwhile, the concurrent mentorship of independent labels through The Vanguard program continues a vital tradition of nurturing new talent - a practice as essential to the future of design in lingerie as it is in directional fashion. This move isn't merely commercial; it's a curatorial choice that reflects a deeper understanding of how radical design, in any apparel category, demands a platform that values its history and its potential.
Originally reported by WWD