When Swiss running label On opened its first Boston store this spring, timed to the city's marathon, General Manager Dan Schade called it an 'incredibly meaningful milestone.' For a brand built on performance, the move was a masterclass in location and timing - qualities that the lingerie industry, with its own history of retail theater, knows intimately. Lingerie houses from La Perla to Agent Provocateur have long understood that a store is not merely a point of sale but a stage for aspiration, much like On's 'premium growth era' strategy.
On now operates 15 U.S. stores and 70 globally, with plans to reach 100 by 2026. New locations in San Francisco, Dallas, Sydney, and Stockholm signal a deliberate climb toward luxury - a path well-worn by corsetiers who transformed undergarments into status symbols in the 19th century. Schade emphasizes that the brand's partnership with Loewe, which recently debuted an updated LightSpray upper technology, anchors On 'close to the luxury ceiling.' This echoes how early 20th-century lingerie brands like Kestos leveraged collaborations with high-fashion houses to elevate corsetry from utility to art.
On's direct-to-consumer sales surged 28.7% in Q1 2026, accounting for nearly 39% of total revenue - a reminder that control over narrative and distribution has always been key. The Americas region posted a record 450.7 million Swiss francs in quarterly sales, up 17.1%. Meanwhile, the launch of the On Athletics Club Sprint team, based near Los Angeles ahead of the 2028 Olympics, reinforces that innovation and athleticism remain the brand's core. For lingerie curators, On's trajectory offers a parallel: the most enduring brands are those that weave heritage, performance, and aspiration into every stitch - and every storefront.
Originally reported by WWD