lingerieApril 17, 2026WWD

Pucci's Dawn in the Grotto: A Lingerie Historian's View on Color, Cave, and Camille Miceli

For Emilio Pucci’s Spring 2026 show, creative director Camille Miceli chose a venue steeped in antiquity: Syracuse’s Grotta dei Cordari, a cavern once quarried by Greeks. This setting, she noted, held specific resonance for the house, as founder Emilio Pucci himself derived his…

For Emilio Pucci’s Spring 2026 show, creative director Camille Miceli chose a venue steeped in antiquity: Syracuse’s Grotta dei Cordari, a cavern once quarried by Greeks. This setting, she noted, held specific resonance for the house, as founder Emilio Pucci himself derived his iconic Marmo print from marble. It’s a fitting reminder that Pucci, since its 1947 founding, has drawn inspiration from natural forms and classical beauty, translating them into the vibrant, body-conscious prints that became synonymous with jet-set glamour.

Miceli’s collection, titled 'Alba' (Dawn), explored fiery oranges and fuchsias inspired by Sicilian lava and dawn light. This chromatic intensity connects to lingerie’s own historical dialogue with color. For decades, intimate apparel was dominated by whites and pastels; the bold, expressive hues seen here reflect a more modern confidence, a liberation of color that brands like Agent Provocateur later championed in the 1990s.

The show’s sheer jersey Lurex dresses and fishnet skirts speak directly to a lingerie-informed sensibility. The fishnet, in particular, references a material long used in foundation garments and stockings, here elevated to outerwear. Miceli’s 'Puccified' wicker baskets and bejeweled sandals continue this thread, treating accessories with the decorative care once reserved for a vanity set. Her vision—a celebration of vitality and light—updates the house’s legacy for a new era, proving that the most compelling fashion often emerges from a deep conversation between history, place, and the body.

Originally reported by WWD

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