PARIS — The announcement of this year's ANDAM Fashion Prize jury, led by Alexandre Mattiussi, assembles a panel of designers, executives, and cultural figures. This deliberate curation mirrors a broader industry evolution, one where the dialogue between creative vision and commercial strategy is paramount. For an institution like The Lingerie Museum, this shift resonates deeply with our historical perspective. The modern fashion ecosystem, which ANDAM's jury represents, is built upon the same foundational tensions that shaped intimate apparel: the balance between artistry and engineering, privacy and presentation.
Consider the inclusion of executives from partners like Galeries Lafayette. This department store's history is inextricably linked to the democratization of lingerie, moving it from custom-made cabinets to accessible ready-to-wear in the early 20th century. Similarly, the mentorship offered by creative directors like Lacoste's Pelagia Kolotouros echoes the guidance once provided by houses like Chantal Thomass, which in the 1970s redefined lingerie as a statement of overt fashion, not just function.
The jury's mandate to evaluate 'commercial and operational viability' alongside creative power is a contemporary echo of the challenges faced by pioneers like Ida Rosenthal of Maidenform, who built a global business by innovating both product (the sewn-cup brassiere) and distribution. ANDAM's focus on supporting designers through this complex landscape acknowledges that today's emerging talent, much like the innovators of lingerie's past, must be both visionary artists and astute strategists to shape the future of how we dress, from the skin outward.
Originally reported by WWD