lingerieMay 30, 2026WWD

The Body and the Archive: China Machado's Legacy in Lingerie and Liberation

In the annals of fashion history, a single shutter click can rewrite the narrative. For China Machado - the first model of color to appear in a major American magazine - that click came in 1959, courtesy of Richard Avedon. But to understand her full impact, we must look beneath the...

In the annals of fashion history, a single shutter click can rewrite the narrative. For China Machado - the first model of color to appear in a major American magazine - that click came in 1959, courtesy of Richard Avedon. But to understand her full impact, we must look beneath the clothes, to the intimate foundations that supported her pioneering silhouette. Machado's career unfolded during a transformative era for lingerie: the late 1950s and '60s saw the rise of the bullet bra, the girdle's slow decline, and the first whispers of the bralette. As a model for houses like Dior and Givenchy - both of which revolutionized corsetry and understructure - Machado's body became a canvas for these shifts. Dior's New Look had demanded wasp waists and padded hips, but by the time Machado walked for American designers at the 1972 Battle of Versailles, lingerie was moving toward naturalism and freedom of movement. Her own label, Cheena, which she launched in the 1970s, echoed this liberation: soft silhouettes that required less scaffolding, more fluidity. Machado understood that fashion's most radical statements often start with what's hidden. As she told Women's Wear Daily in 1967, "Fashion has to be exaggerated, has to be newsy to get the point across." For a woman who broke racial barriers while draped in the finest silks and laces, the point was always about visibility - of skin, of structure, of self. At The Lingerie Museum, we remember Machado not just as a face, but as a force who reshaped how we dress, from the inside out.

Originally reported by WWD

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