For Resort 2027, Blumarine's creative director David Koma traded the sun-bleached Italian coast for something far more intimate: the psychological shift of summer itself. Rather than a destination, his muse is Irina Shayk, who embodies the brand's central tension between seduction and romance - a duality that has long defined lingerie's own history, from the corset's rigid allure to the soft drape of silk chemises.
Koma's collection is a study in contrasts. Fringed, see-through gowns evoke the dark romanticism he has brought to the house, while floral metal harnesses peek from under marabou-trimmed cardigans - a nod to the structural underpinnings of Victorian lingerie, where boning and lace conspired to shape the female form. Yet he balances this theatricality with pristine white crinkle-georgette dresses and crisp poplin shirt dresses, offering a wearability that echoes the rise of the modern brassiere in the 1920s, when liberation demanded both support and simplicity.
"We become more brave, more exposed," Koma said of summer's psychology. This seasonal bravery mirrors lingerie's own evolution: from hidden foundation to visible statement. Blumarine's black Chantilly lace dresses, cut in varying lengths, recall the 19th-century French workshops that perfected this fabric for intimate apparel, while lime-hued and bougainvillea-printed mini frocks - with ruffles, turquoise beading, and feathery embroideries - suggest the playful, revealing spirit of the 1960s babydoll.
Koma's edited effort strips away excess, leaving a wardrobe that is both aspirational and relatable. For the lingerie museum, this collection is a reminder that what we wear beneath - or barely above - is always a conversation between vulnerability and strength, history and the present moment.
Originally reported by WWD