In the ever-evolving narrative of fashion's fraught relationship with cultural heritage, the latest chapter unfolds with fast-fashion behemoth Shein at its center. Michelle Cameron, founder of Indigenous Nations Apparel Company (INAC) and a member of the Peguis First Nation, alleges that Shein copied 20 of her designs - and went further, using proprietary imagery of her daughter modeling the original pieces to sell the knockoffs. The alleged infringements included a T-shirt from INAC's Red Day Dress collection, which honors missing and murdered Indigenous women, girls, and Two-Spirit people - a design rooted in the lands of the Anishinabe, Ininew, Oji-Cree, Dene, Dakota, and Red River Métis peoples. Cameron, who launched her label five years ago in Winnipeg, reported the incident on May 21, and while Shein removed most of the items by May 26, the company has not contacted her directly. She is now considering legal action. "It's not just about us," Cameron said. "I wanted to be a voice for others." The undercutting is particularly galling: INAC's T-shirts retail between $20 and $30, while Shein sold the unauthorized versions at half that price. This is not an isolated incident. From Willy Chavarria's 2023 apology for appropriating Oaxacan huaraches to Minnetonka's 2021 commitment to support Native communities after a cultural appropriation scandal, the fashion industry has a long - and often uncomfortable - history with Indigenous design. For lingerie and apparel historians, this case underscores a persistent tension: the line between inspiration and theft, especially when the original creators lack the resources to defend their work. As Cameron put it, "Maybe if they want to sell art, they will reach out to the artists to say, 'Hey, can we partner with you?'" In an industry where corsetry and undergarments have similarly been stripped of their cultural origins, this is a call to remember that every stitch has a story - and a price.
Originally reported by WWD