Lise Charmel is a French luxury lingerie and swimwear house founded in the 1950s in La Croix-Rousse, the old silk-weaving quarter of Lyon. Since 1975 it has been owned and run by Jacques Daumal, and it sits at the top of a family-controlled group of five labels, the Lise Charmel group, that also includes Antigel, Antinea, Eprise and Epure.
A Small Firm on the Croix-Rousse Hill
The French encyclopedia entry on the company is brief about its beginnings: in the 1950s, it says, the small firm Lise Charmel was founded at La Croix-Rousse in Lyon. No founder is named there, and none is named in the brand's own published material reviewed for this entry. The exact year is also not given; the 1950 date in this museum's records is a rounding, not a documented founding day.
The location matters. La Croix-Rousse is the hill where Lyon's silk weavers, the canuts, worked their Jacquard looms in the nineteenth century, and where they rose in revolt in 1831 and 1834. By the 1950s the silk industry had long since declined, but the district still carried that textile identity, and a lingerie firm opening there was claiming a lineage whether or not it wove anything itself. The company's address today is 45 rue Saint-Pierre-de-Vaise, across the Saone in the Vaise district.
Early Recognition: 1968 and Les Fauves
Two early honors are on record. In 1968 Lise Charmel received the Trophee International de l'Esthetique et de l'Elegance. In 1984 it made the lingerie for the four haute-lingerie runway shows staged in the French film Les Fauves, a commission that says something about how the house was seen in France by then: as the name to call when a film needed lingerie that read as couture on screen. In 1992 it won an International Gold Medal for Quality in Madrid.
Jacques Daumal Takes Over, 1975
The turning point came in 1975, when Jacques Daumal bought the business. He was still president of Lise Charmel Industrie at the time of the most recent encyclopedia revision, and Emmanuelle Daumal is named as director. Under Daumal the company grew from a single label into a portfolio built to reach different customers without diluting the flagship:
| Label | Role in the group |
|---|---|
| Lise Charmel | Flagship luxury line |
| Antigel | Created in 1999 for a younger customer |
| Antinea | Mid-range label brought into the group |
| Eprise | Extends sizing up to a G cup |
| Epure | Launched in 2011, a more minimal line |
The structure is a sensible one for a luxury house. The flagship keeps its prices and its embroidery; the younger and fuller-figure lines carry the volume.
The Lise Charmel Look
The house style is ornate. Lise Charmel is known for heavily worked embroidered tulle, guipure, satin and colored lace, often in saturated jewel tones and built into structured, underwired sets and matching swimwear. Each season is organized into named collections around a theme, with the motif carried through bras, briefs, bodies and beachwear. Where many French houses have moved toward lighter, plainer styles, Lise Charmel has stayed decorative, and its pieces are easy to identify across a shop floor for that reason.
An older version of this entry claimed six to eight collections a year, distribution in more than 50 countries and specific sourcing from Calais lace mills. None of those figures could be confirmed for this revision, and they have been removed.
Cyberattack and Receivership, 2020
The company's recent history includes a hard stretch. In February 2020, after a cyberattack, Lise Charmel placed itself in redressement judiciaire, the French court-supervised recovery procedure, and Antigel Lingerie entered the same procedure. The French encyclopedia records the filing but not its outcome, and the house is still trading under its own name, with its group of labels intact on its website.
Harrods and the Numbers
Late in 2018 Lise Charmel opened its first corner in the United Kingdom, inside Harrods in London. Its published accounts show how small a luxury lingerie name can be in industrial terms. For 2017 the company reported revenue of about 6.3 million euros, a net result of about 1.8 million euros, and 40 employees. Those are the figures of a design-led firm that sells to boutiques and department stores, not a manufacturing giant, and they make the house's reach in the luxury market look all the more efficient.
Last updated
Sources
- fr.wikipedia.org: Lise Charmel
- lisecharmel.com
Collections (23)
Charme Secret
FW 2024
Éclat d'Or
Holiday 2024
Aria Pastel
SS 2023
Bellissime Amour
Valentine 2023
Maestria Andalouse
2022
Sonate en Bleu
2022
Ajourage Couture
2021
Frisson d'Or
2021
Jardins de Lumière
2021
Éblouissante Icone
2020
Élégance Artist
2020
Libertine en Fleurs
2020
Forêt Rubis
2019
Princesse Iris
2019
Tropique en Fleurs
2019
Dressing Floral
2018
Fleurs Étoilées
2018
Floraison Passion
2018
Féérie Couture
2017
Source Beauté
2017
Splendeur Soie
2016
Sublime en Dentelle
2016
Soir de Venise
2015
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