Embroidered

Embroidery is decoration stitched onto a fabric that already exists. In lingerie the base is usually tulle, mesh or organza, and the stitching builds motifs of flowers, leaves, dots, stars or geometric shapes on top of it. The base stays visible between the motifs, which is the quickest way to tell embroidery from lace.

Most lingerie embroidery is made on Schiffli machines. Isaak Groebli built the first one in 1863 in eastern Switzerland, and the region around St. Gallen became the center of machine embroidery. The machine works many needles at once, each fed by a small shuttle that gives it its name, Swiss German for "little boat." The same machines also make guipure lace: they embroider onto a ground that is then dissolved chemically, leaving only the stitched motifs. So a garment described as guipure lace is technically a cousin of embroidered tulle.

Embroidered fabrics run from cheap single-color mesh bralettes to couture-level bra cups with dense, multi-thread floral work, sometimes with sequins or beads added. Because the base is a fine net, an embroidered cup can be almost transparent around very dense motifs, which makes it popular for unlined balconette and plunge bras.

Embroidery suits those who want a sheer, decorated look with more relief and color than most lace. Dense satin-stitch motifs can feel stiff against the skin, and the edges of motifs can scratch. Lace forms the pattern and the ground together; embroidery adds the pattern to a ground. Applique is cut fabric sewn on, not thread. The site classifies embroidered as a fabric because the stitching, not the base net, is what defines the look.