Spring/Summer 2027 Runway Lingerie in Milan and Paris

Spring/Summer 2027 runway lingerie had one capital and one argument. In Milan, in the last week of September 2026, Fendi, Prada, Marni and Ferragamo built collections around bras, slips and sheer layers, and La Perla returned with its first collection in about three years. In Paris, Chloe and Miu Miu took the idea in opposite directions, one toward lace and the 1960s, the other toward the gym. This is a show-by-show record of what was on the runway.

Milan: Fendi starts from the underwear

Maria Grazia Chiuri's second collection for Fendi was the most lingerie-driven show of the season. The invitation carried a line from E.E. Cummings, "I like my body when it's with your body," and the clothes followed it. W Magazine, writing on September 23, 2026, listed lace- and embroidery-trimmed bralettes, lace-trimmed slips with plunging V-necks, sparkly boy-short bodysuits, and a bralette with boxer shorts in pistachio silk. One look put a white button-front dickey over a black lace-trimmed slip. The show notes described underwear as "an interstitial layer between body and clothes, sometimes exposed, sometimes concealed."

The Impression added half-slips and turquoise bloomers, a garment that still carries the name of the American dress reformer Amelia Bloomer. Grazia noted the fabric pairings: velvet with parchment, animal print with silk, gloss against matte. The colors, per W, were black, dusty rose, butter yellow and pistachio.

For a lingerie historian the interesting detail is the boxer short. Cut in silk and paired with a bralette, it was styled as something to be seen, with nothing over it.

Prada and Marni: the bra as a top, and the bra inside

Prada opened the week with what the press quickly called the skirt show. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons put a knee-length skirt in all 63 looks, and The Impression's review noted the bandeau bras worn over several of them, "the provocative nature of a nearly-bare top half." Essence, rounding up the month on October 12, filed Prada under its "itty-bitty tops" trend.

Marni, under Belgian designer Meryll Rogge, did the reverse. The Impression described a process of "cutting away, opening up and looking beneath the surface," and wrote that femininity came "not by the overt revealing of a bra, but its physical embedding into the construction of a garment." In other words, the cups and seams of a bra were sewn into the dress itself. Who What Wear still grouped Marni with Fendi as the two Milan houses that gave the exposed bra "a starring role."

Ferragamo: the slip with a belt across it

Maximilian Davis showed Ferragamo at the Triennale in Milan, and W Magazine's Kristen Bateman, writing on September 26, 2026, listed sheer draped dresses, sheer panels on skirts, and "slipdresses rendered in belts across the bust." The belt does the job a bra's band would normally do, holding the bodice in place, which is a neat piece of lingerie engineering moved to the outside. Who What Wear called the Ferragamo look "sheer, chest-exposing layering."

La Perla comes back to Milan

The one true lingerie house on the Milan calendar was La Perla, presenting Collection #00 in late September 2026. Milano Finanza reported on September 28 that the pieces were hung "as in an art gallery," mixing new designs with reissued archive pieces, under chief executive Alessio Vannetti and owner Luxury Holding. The techniques named were the house's old vocabulary: Leavers lace, Cornely embroidery, soutache, frastaglio cutwork and macrame. The company also announced an Accademia La Perla for early 2027, to place apprentices in the Bologna atelier alongside its existing craftspeople.

Il Foglio's Fabiana Giacomotti, summing up the week on September 28, listed "lingerie-style tops and bras" among the signatures of the season and credited part of their reach on the high street to "La Perla's return to the market."

Paris: Chloe in lace, Miu Miu in a sports bra

Chemena Kamali showed Chloe on October 1, 2026, at the Paris Observatory. The Associated Press described broderie anglaise on cotton and organza, raised floral embroidery recalling the 1960s, metallic straps across the bust, and lace cut away to form "romantic harnesses" around bare skin. W Magazine counted lace bodysuits under tailored pieces, lace negligee dresses with deep necklines, and a single flower micro-bra plated in silver and gold. The palette, per W, was dusty rose, black, white and pale pink.

Three days later, on October 4 at the Palais d'Iena, Miuccia Prada sent Miu Miu out in "sporty bra tops covered in opulent sprays of crystals," as W put it, beside shrunken 1960s silk minidresses. Prada's own explanation was short: "to lift up the sport; to bring elegance to the sport." The sports bra, until recently the least glamorous garment in the drawer, was the piece of the Miu Miu show that every report mentioned.

What Spring/Summer 2027 runway lingerie had in common

Set side by side, the shows agree on one practical point: the bra is now a top, and designers are treating its parts, the band, the straps, the cups, as structural ideas to move around a garment. Fendi showed it as underwear, Prada as a bandeau, Marni sewn into a dress, Ferragamo as a belt, Miu Miu as sportswear. Chloe and La Perla kept it as lace. The Victoria's Secret show on October 18, 2026 in Los Angeles is the next place the same garment goes in front of a camera.

Last updated October 28, 2026