La Perla 2027: Collection 00 and the Bologna Restart

La Perla 2027 starts where the brand itself started, in a Bologna workroom. The Italian lingerie house that Ada Masotti founded in 1954 presented Collection 00, its first new line under new owners, at Milan Fashion Week in September 2026, and on October 8, 2026 it reopened the online store it had kept shut for three years. The owners are the American couple Peter and Kirsten Kern. Their plan is built around the factory, not around a star designer.

Who owns La Perla now

The recent past in brief. The founding family sold in 2008, and four foreign ownership teams ran the company over the following fifteen years, Il Foglio recounted in October 2026. By 2024 the manufacturing arm was in administration. In 2025 it was sold at auction to Luxury Holding, the Kerns' investment vehicle, for a reported sum of about 30 million euros; ANSA puts the price for the production division nearer 25 million. Peter Kern is a former chief executive of Expedia and Tribune Media.

Running the business is Alessio Vannetti, who became chief executive on September 1, 2026, after marketing and brand roles at houses including Gucci and Valentino. His line to Il Foglio was short: "The relaunch I'm leading is based on craftsmanship and skilled workers."

Bologna has more orders than hands

The workers were the first asset recovered. In December 2025 the company recalled 223 former employees who had not found other jobs, and the plant was producing again early in 2026, according to Milano Finanza and the trade site Luxe.co. Inside the company the seamstresses have long been called "le Perline", and ANSA reports that some of the sewing machines carry modifications found nowhere else.

That is also the bottleneck. Vannetti told ANSA in September 2026 that former clients came back wanting regular orders, and that Bologna's current capacity cannot fill all of them. Luxe.co adds that family-run Italian workshops have been brought in to help.

An academy in early 2027

The answer is slow on purpose. La Perla plans to open an in-house academy in the first quarter of 2027 to train cutters and embroiderers on apprenticeship contracts, with senior staff as teachers. It is the most concrete date on the brand's 2027 calendar, and it says a good deal about where the company stands: its problem is too much demand for hand-finished work, not too little.

Collection 00 and the Metropolis line

The September collection was not credited to a celebrity creative director. It came from an in-house team led by Barbara Zappoli, the chief product officer, who has spent more than twenty years at the company. Milano Finanza and Luxe.co describe the same mix: proven bestsellers, pieces recreated from the archive, a new line called Metropolis, and a swimwear range.

The archive pieces are the point. La Perla's name was made on Masotti's corsetry and on finishing done by hand in Bologna, so reissuing old designs is the quickest public test of whether the factory still has those skills. The categories listed at the online relaunch were silk and lace lingerie, home wear and swimwear. Collection 00 went on pre-order, with further drops planned from mid-November through April 2027, Milano Finanza reported on October 8.

Where La Perla sells

Distribution is a fraction of what it was. In September 2026 the only store carrying the new collection was Rinascente in Milan; the brand once had about 200 points of sale, Milano Finanza noted. The United States and Italy are named as the priority markets.

Online is where the reach is. The reopened site gave two weeks of early access to members of its Salon prive, a client list of more than 100,000 people, with a concierge service offering direct contact with the atelier. A global launch was set for the end of October 2026, with delivery to more than 50 countries. The company said it moved the date forward because of demand on its digital channels.

The brand has also narrowed. Luxe.co reports that La Perla has stepped back from outside licenses and menswear to concentrate on women's lingerie it describes as "contemporary couture".

La Perla 2027 and the Milan mood

The timing helped. Reviewing the Spring/Summer 2027 shows in Milan on September 28, 2026, Il Foglio's Fabiana Giacomotti listed lingerie-style tops, corsets and dressing gowns among the season's threads, and said La Perla's return to the market had given them more weight. For a label whose factory was in administration two years earlier, being named as a cause of a runway trend is a real change of status. The full story of the house, from Ada Masotti's first workshop onward, is on the La Perla brand page.

What the 2027 season will show is whether a factory of a little over two hundred people, plus an academy that has not yet opened, can supply a client list that runs past 100,000.

Last updated October 28, 2026