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How to Wear a Corset for Halloween: Fit, Lacing, Costumes

Overbust or underbust, how to measure, how to lace yourself in with the bunny ears, how long to wear it, and six Halloween costumes built on a corset.

By Claire Delaunay · 5 min read

How to Wear a Corset for Halloween: Fit, Lacing, Costumes

To wear a corset for Halloween, buy one about 4 inches (10 cm) smaller than your natural waist, put a thin cotton layer under it, fasten the front busk with the laces fully loose, then pull the waist loops snug rather than tight. Wear it for an evening of a few hours, not a whole day, and unlace at the first sign of pain.

The details depend on which garment you have, because three different things are sold as "corsets" in October.

Overbust, underbust or corset-look bustier

An overbust corset runs from above the bust down over the waist and hips, so it works as a top on its own. An underbust starts just below the bust and is worn over a blouse, a dress or a bra. Underbusts are easier to fit, since only the waist and hips have to agree with the pattern.

The third thing is the corset-look bustier: a laced or hooked top with plastic bones, often with zips and stretch panels. It does not reduce the waist. Plastic boning such as Rigilene is, in the words of Wikipedia's boning entry, "considered low quality and unsupportive." For one party that may be all you need. Our comparison of the longline bra, bustier and corset draws the line between them.

A real corset has steel bones, usually flat steel at the front and back and spiral steel over the curves, plus a busk: two steel strips down the center front, one with loops and one with pegs. The busk is what lets you dress alone. The V&A's label for a silk corset of 1864 says its wearer "could dress without help because the steel 'split busk' fastens in front," a fastening invented in 1829 but not common until the 1850s. Our corset history picks up from there.

Measuring your waist for a corset size

Measure the narrowest part of your torso, where a crease forms when you bend to one side, with the tape level and snug against the skin but not squeezing. Breathe normally and do not suck in. A corset's size is its closed waist. The British corset seller Eimee tells beginners to stick to a 4 inch (10 cm) reduction, so a 28 inch (71 cm) waist takes a size 24, and says some experienced wearers go to 5 or 6 inches only after body and corset have adjusted.

For a first corset, stay at the 4 inch mark. Laced, the back should still show a gap of an inch or two; if the edges meet, the corset is too big.

How to lace a corset by yourself

Most off-the-rack corsets arrive laced with the cord crossing toward the waist from both ends, leaving two long loops at the waistline, the bunny ears. The Lingerie Addict's lacing guide places them at the grommet pair closest to your waist tape, which is where the pull does the most work.

  1. Loosen the laces all the way, so the back opens as wide as it will go.
  2. Wrap the corset round you and close the busk one peg at a time. The corsetmaker Dark Garden starts with the second peg from the bottom rather than the end one, then hooks the rest in turn.
  3. Pull the bunny ears out to the sides and forward. Pulling forward gives you far more leverage than reaching behind.
  4. Work the slack in from the top and from the bottom toward the waist, a crossing or two at a time, then pull the ears again.
  5. Check that the two back edges run parallel, then tie the ears in a bow and tuck the ends in.

Your first night in it

Do not tight-lace a new corset. Lucy Corsetry calls the old advice to lace "as tight as you possibly can" on a first wear "bad advice," says a corset should be "as snug as you find comfortable," and states that corsets "should never ever hurt, pinch, or bruise you." Her beginner guideline for breaking one in is 2 inches of reduction for 2 hours a day over 2 weeks. If the party is this week, lace looser than the photos suggest.

For the night itself, plan on a few hours and carry a way to loosen it. Healthline, in a medically reviewed article on tight clothing, lists difficulty breathing as a sign a garment is too tight and says an outfit you cannot draw a full breath in should come off. Pain, numbness, tingling or dizziness all mean the same thing: unlace in the bathroom and finish the night looser.

Sit on the front edge of the chair with your back upright, as the costume teacher Jennifer Rosbrugh advises, and avoid deep sofas. At the buffet she suggests half your usual plate and small bites. The Lingerie Addict warns that a compressed stomach leaves less room for the gas in Champagne, beer and sodas, and that drinks seem to hit harder once the corset comes off. Unlace before you open the busk at the end of the night.

What goes under and over it

Underneath, a thin cotton or cotton-spandex camisole, tank or tube top keeps sweat off the lining and stops the grommets rubbing. With an overbust, a strapless or corset bra is optional; with an underbust, wear whatever bra suits the top over it. Over it, a cape or open jacket; anything tight on top bunches.

Six Halloween costumes built on a corset

  • Victorian mourning. A black overbust, a long black skirt, jet beads, a veil. Our history of black lingerie explains why it reads as grief.
  • Vampire. A wine or oxblood velvet overbust, black skirt slit to the knee, a high stand-up collar or cape, dark lipstick.
  • Pirate. A brown or black underbust over a loose white shirt with full sleeves, wide belt, knee boots, a sash tied at the hip.
  • Witch. A black overbust with a layered tulle skirt, striped stockings and a pointed hat; green or purple lacing if the corset allows a change of cord.
  • Steampunk aviator. A leather-look underbust over a cream blouse, high-waisted trousers or a bustle skirt, goggles pushed up on a top hat.
  • Bride of Frankenstein. A white or ivory overbust with a full white skirt, the tall striped hair, and a few stitched scars drawn on the arms.

Each works with a bustier for one night. How lingerie took over the holiday is told in our history of Halloween lingerie costumes.

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Questions

How tight should a corset be the first time you wear it?

Snug, not tight. Corsetieres advise against tight-lacing a new corset: Lucy Corsetry suggests about 2 inches of reduction for short sessions while the corset breaks in, and says a corset should never hurt, pinch or bruise. You should be able to breathe fully, sit and talk. If you cannot, loosen the laces.

Can you sit down and eat in a corset?

Yes, with some changes. Sit on the front edge of a firm chair with your back upright and avoid deep sofas. Eat about half your usual portion in small bites, and go easy on fizzy drinks such as Champagne, beer and soda, because a compressed stomach leaves little room for the gas.

Is a bustier the same as a corset?

No. A bustier is a fitted top with light plastic boning, often with stretch panels or a zip, that shapes the bust but does not reduce the waist. A corset uses steel boning, a front busk and back lacing, and is sized several inches smaller than the natural waist so it can pull the waist in.

Should you wear a corset over or under clothes?

Either, depending on the style. An overbust corset can be worn as a top over a thin camisole. An underbust is usually worn over a blouse, shirt or dress, which is how most pirate and steampunk costumes use it. Keep any layer underneath thin and smooth, because bulky fabric creates pressure points.

Sources

  1. eimee.co.uk: how to measure for a corset
  2. lucycorsetry.com: advanced breaking in your corset intuitive seasoning
  3. darkgarden.com: self lacing instructions
  4. timeless-trends.com: corset care
  5. thelingerieaddict.com: lace corset v method
  6. thelingerieaddict.com: how to care for a corset while wearing your corset
  7. thelingerieaddict.com: how to care for a corset part 2 three reasons why you need to unlac...
  8. thelingerieaddict.com: effects drinking while corseted
  9. luxenoir.com: how to lace a corset properly
  10. luxenoir.com: corset glossary
  11. historicalsewing.com: what everyone ought to know about wearing a victorian corset
  12. healthline.com: tight clothes

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